![]() ![]() This is as confirmed by Turbo Dynamics who I had a chat with. The wear on mine (and all probably) is the wastegate pivot in the turbine housing NOT the actuator arm end pivot. This tightening also fixes the rattle for me, until it wears again. So as long as you are just winding out slack to get back to the correct operation you are ok. This extra boost will heat up that turbo more and will actually fight against the other turbo's output.īUT - in practice it seems that the rear turbo linkage wears more (hotter maybe?), in both cases on my car an extra 1/2 turn on the shaft was required on the rear turbo only to get full closure at the specified 200mbar vacuum. If you over-adjust one actuator only, then that turbo will produce more boost than the other for a given vacuum level. ![]() It is thus very important that both wastegates close exactly the same amount for any given vacuum. The Mr5 methods is flawed IMO in that he assumes the ECU can control each wastegate separately, this is not the case, there are 2 solenoids, but the output vaccum lines are paralleled up, so there is only 1 vaccuum for both turbos. I've had it adjusted twice properly with a hand vaccum pump (2nd time just this week) with DPs off. Mine has always suffered from a recurring ticking rattle on warm starts which goes in about a minute. Sorry to waffle, but i've spent time (and money) on this. ![]()
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